Yesterday as we arrived at the Sudanese compound gate late in the afternoon a dark dressed gent with a brown backpack hanging heavily on one shoulder appeared and told us through the railings that they had just closed for today but that he would see what he could do. He soon returned, and said that we would have to spend the night outside, there was nothing to be done. His name was Mazar.
Exceptions being usually expensive I was, not surprisingly, quite relieved. Besides, we were by now hungry and tired and had had enough for the day. He said that we would be safe, asked if we needed water and that he would let us in tomorrow morning at half past eight. At ten dressed as previously and with his rucksack he reappeared. The gate was opened and he asked for our passports. We were told to wait over there, next to a shed on the other side of the compound and that he would be back soon. Indeed he was and the passports were allready stamped.
Thinking that it was about time he introduced himself I asked if he was a customs official. He seemed a little surprised that we did’nt know that he was Mazar the fixer. I had read about him in other blogs, the inofficial right hand man of the Sudanese officials, who apparently won’t deal with the likes of us without him. We then talked about the procedure that lay ahead of us and what his services would amount to. We needed in addition insurance, negotiated and agreed upon conditions and then sat in the van untill lunchtime. Mazar who was in every respect polite, correct, competent and whos English was very reasonable, would every now and then reappear, explain what he had just done and what he was now about to do.
A handful of uniformed officials accompanied by Mazar were then shown the van inside and out. They were especially interested in the fridge, and had this or that explained and translated to them by Mazar. The WC and shower were particularly entertaining. Satisfied and amused, convinced and assured that we were harmless they proceeded to their lunch. Mazar apologised for the inconvenience and that he had to wait until after lunch for the insurance bod.
At about half past one we were all done and settled with Mazar. The costs were exactly as agreed and we can thoroughly recommend him. We also exchanged EGP for SDG with him at a rate of 1:2. Oficially the exchange rate was 21 SDG to 1 EUR (the same as the EGP) but Mazar gave us 42 !!! By two o’clock we had said goodbye and made for Wadi Halfa. Mazar said that diesel might not be available there.
Costs
Clearance..................................................................................................................................................550 EGP (26,19 EUR)
insurance....................................................................................................................................................120 EGP (5,71 EUR)
Mazar..........................................................................................................................................................200 EGP (9,52 EUR)
rounded up...................................................................................................................................................30 EGP (1,43 EUR)
Total..........................................................................................................................................................900 EGP (42,86 EUR)
- Thankyou Mazar. Mazar Mahir. mazarhalfa@gmail.com